Short row heels are my favorite to execute. While a flap heel is more traditional, I don’t enjoy picking up stitches.
I also like the symmetry of a short row heel.
This post is part of our sock issue. Check out the whole issue!
But I’ll admit, short row heels can sometimes be poor-fitting. The lack of gussets in a typical short row heel can put unnecessary strain on the heel section of the sock. And in socks with less than average stretch, it can create a sock that’s just plain unwearable.
There is a solution though – the mini gusset.
The gusset can be worked on both toe-up and cuff-down socks, and can be customized to suit your sock’s gauge and your foot shape.
As you can see, the mini gusset retains the striping of the rest of the sock.
The gusset doesn’t need to be big. This gusset is 6 stitches wide, about 3/4″, or 1.5″ of added circumference
Regardless of direction (toe-up or cuff-down), you work the gusset the same way.
|
total stitches around sock |
stitches per gusset |
rnds for each half of gusset |
| 45-54 | 5 | 10 |
| 55-64 | 6 | 12 |
| 65-74 | 7 | 14 |
| 75-84 | 8 | 16 |
Working a gusset is easy, and can be added to almost any sock with a short row heel.
Step 1: Find the number of rows your gusset will take. Refer to the table above.
Step 2: Determine the height of your gusset in inches. Divide the number in Step 1 by your row gauge. For example, If you’re knitting a 60 stitch sock and your row gauge is 8 rows per inch, divide 12 by 8, which equals 1.5 inches.
Step 3: When your sock is 1.5 inches before you’re ready to start the heel, begin your gusset increases.
Gussets are worked on the instep only. I recommend using lifted increases – abbreviated RLI and LLI. {see our lifted increase tutorial}
Gusset Increase Rnd: At the start of the instep, RLI, pm, work until end of instep, pm, LLI; 2 sts inc’d.
Repeat Gusset Increase Rnd every other rnd until all increases are worked.
Work your short row heel as directed. When your heel is complete, you’re ready to decrease your gusset.
Move your stitch markers in one stitch (closer to the center of the sock).
Gusset Decrease Rnd: At the start of the instep, work until 2 sts bef marker, k2tog, work insteap as set, sm, ssk, work to end of gusset; 2 sts dec’d.
Work Gusset Decrease Rnd every other rnd until you have decreased all gusset sts. You will have 1 st on the outside of each marker. Remove markers – you’re done!
While it may not look like much, those little gusset wings create the extra space you need to fan out across your ankle and heel. The numbers listed in the table above are suggestions. If you need a larger gusset by all means make it larger! Just make sure you account for the extra stitches by starting your gusset early enough.
About the Instructor: Jody Richards
Jody is the founder and lead editor of Knotions. She loves poring over stitch dictionaries and trying out new stitches.
She’s also on a mission to get everyone to embrace the blocking. And, to avoid using garter stitch edges in knit swatches made for gauge.
And while she likes all things crafting (well ok, except that one thing), yarn crafts are her true love (and she has the stash to prove it).
Hi Jody!
Thank you for this tutorial. I did my increases 1 stitch in from each edge of my instep stitches. After completing the short row heel, can I continue that way for decreases? Start with ssk 1 stitch in from start of instep and knit to last 3 instep stitches and do a k2tog and then k1?
You’re welcome!
Doing the decreases that way will work. I’d do it a few times and then take a peek and see if you like it.
Thank you so much!!
Sure thing! Let me know what you think.
Hi, I often use a flap and gusset heel but when it comes to a stranded pattern I strictly do a German short row heel so I don’t have to think about interrupting the pattern/chart on either the instep or sole. This leads to a sometimes too-snug arch especially since stranded is already snug. I’m trying to wrap my head around this but I’m a visual (ie video) learner so it”s hard for me to see. Will this only work with a one-yarn pattern because I’d love to try it but I worry it defeats the purpose of my doing short row in the first place? Thank you!
It’ll work in either case. Since the gussets will only be a few stitches wide, even if you just do 1 color, it’ll be fine.
Why do I start the mini gusset 1.5” before I want to start the heel? Shouldn’t it be 6 rounds (or half the amount of rounds) before when I want to start? Or 3/4” before when I want to start since I finish off the gusset by decreasing after the heel is done? I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around it. I appreciate your help. Thank you!
No problem! This is a great little technique, and I’m happy to help!
Let’s look at the table above. we’d be in the row for a 55-64 st sock. That’s a 6 stitch gusset and 12 rounds. The reason is that the increases are only done EVERY OTHER ROUND. This makes the increase less-steep because it’s more gradual.
Does that help? If I’m not answering your exact question, please let me know what it is.
I think I had fudged up the math because I didn’t read properly and my row gauge is shorter than yours. But now that I’ve re-read it it makes perfect sense and it worked out great. Thank you very much for this tutorial.
I’m so glad! Happy Knitting 🙂
I’m new here.
So do the gusset increases
Do the heel
Then decrease gusset after the shadow wrap heel
not exactly.
the gussets are on each side, like in this illustration https://knotions.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/anatomy-sock-featured.webp
also, it’s showing a heel flap, the same thing can apply to a short row heel.
here are gussets on a short row heel https://knotions.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/srgusset2-lg.jpg
Hello,
Thank you so much, the little gusset looks really nice. The sock fits ways better. I made some baby socks, because I am a very impatient knitter, but I am happy with the result and can now make a new pair for me 😊
Lovely idea and great helpful photos.
A wunderful das to you!
Bibs
i’m so glad you like them! i think they make a big difference when using the short row heel.
I’ve knit mini gussets top down. I’m knitting toe up and beginning a short row heel. So, once that is complete. I begin the mini gusset per the directions of the cuff down description? Thank you!
actually you start the mini gusset *before* you start the heel. the mini gusset spans both sides of the heel (before *and* after, regardless of which direction you’re knitting them in).
Step 3 tells you. You do this regardless of whether you’re knitting toe-up or cuff-down.
Step 3: When your sock is 1.5 inches before you’re ready to start the heel, begin your gusset increases.
You can also take a look at the pic where I outline the mini-gusset in black. Here it is as well https://knotions.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/srgusset2-lg-640×631.jpg
Thanks for getting back so promptly! I get it. Knitting a sock for a wide foot.
if it’s for a wide foot then you DEF need the mini gusset! you might even want to make the mini gusset a bit wider. if so, you’ll need to start it a bit sooner too so it’s at its widest when you get ready to do the heel.
Just what I need to do. My afterthought heel socks are always tighter than I like right n that gusset area. I don’t want to do heel flaps. So I will be trying this! Thank you!
you’re welcome! i’m glad it was helpful for you!
excellent !!!
i’m so glad you like it!