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child's saddle-yoked pullover

Knit Picks Fall 2008

saddle yoke pullover

Child's Saddle Yoke Pullover by Elizabeth Warner

Sizes

XS(S, M, L. XL) to fit baby 3 months (9 months, 18 months, 2T, 3T)

Finished Chest Size 19.5 (20.75, 22, 24, 25) inches

Yarn

KnitPicks Swish DK (100% superwash merino wool; 123 yds [112 m] / 50 g skein): Storm (MC) 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) balls; White (CC) 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) balls

Plus one ball each additional color used in motif

Needles

US #5 (3.75 mm) 16” circular
US #5 (3.75 mm) double pointed needles
US #4 (3.5 mm) 16” circular
US #4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles
Two small (US #4 or smaller) circular needles, 20” or longer

Gauge

22 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10 cm) in St st worked flat

Notions

Two stitch markers; row counter; scrap yarn or stitch holders; tapestry needle

Abbreviations

Please see our standard list of abbreviations.

w&t (wrap next stitch and turn work): On a knit row, bring the yarn through the needles to the front, slip the next stitch, pass the yarn back between the needles, slip the stitch back to the left hand needle, and turn the work so you are ready to purl.  On a purl row, pass the yarn through the needles to the back, slip the next stitch, bring the yarn back between the needles to the front, slip the stitch back to the front, and turn the work so you are ready to knit.

LLinc (left-leaning lifted increase): Insert your left needle, from front to back, into the top of the stitch two rows below the stitch just knit. Knit into the back of this stitch.

RLinc (right-leaning lifted increase): Insert your right needle, from front to back, into the top of the stitch below the first stitch on the left needle. Place this stitch on your left needle, and knit into the back of it.

Ed. Note - Please see our lifted increase tutorial for a detailed explanation.

Pattern Notes

The yoke is worked first, then stitches are picked up for the fronts and then the back.  Refer to the pictures and diagram for help.  The instructions for the yoke include one stitch on each edge as “selvage” to be picked up later.  I recommend that you slip the first stitch of each row in order to make picking up stitches easier, but this has not been written into the pattern.

Five different charts have been provided so that you can choose your own color scheme and motif for your sweater.  You can also insert any 28 stitch wide design in that space.

Unlike most charts, the chart in this sweater is worked from the top down.  The colorwork is done flat in intarsia.  I recommend a different small ball of yarn for each section of color.  Be sure to twist the yarns over each other as you change colors to avoid gaps in the work.

The sleeve caps are formed with short rows.  The instructions tell you to not pick up the wraps as you work over the short rows.  Leaving the wraps creates a nice “seamed” look where the sleeve meets the body.  If you do not want this look, pick up the wrap as you normally would.

All cuffs are finished with the tubular bind-off.  This is more time-consuming than a normal bind off, but it produces a beautiful, stretchy, and hard-wearing edge that is ideal for children's garments.  I have provided instructions for this bind-off in the pattern.  Detailed instructions with diagrams can be found on TechKnitter's wonderful blog.

Size Notes

Since children come in all shapes and sizes, measure your intended child before casting on.  The sample shown is a Medium (18 month) modeled on a large (22 lb) 10 month old, with an actual chest measurement of 19”.  It’s got an inch or two for ease, and an inch to grow into all winter!  All sizes are designed with deep armholes and ample sleeves to be easy to get on and off, and to allow your little roller/crawler/climber to move however she wants!

Yoke

Size XS

With CC, provisionally cast on 13 stitches
Rows 1-5: Work in st st, beginning with a knit row
Row 6: K9, RLinc, k4; 14 stitches
Rows 7-11: Work in st st
Row 12: K5, RLinc, k9; 15 stitches
Rows 13-17: Work in st st
Row 18: BO 4 stitches, k to end; 11 stitches
Row 19: P9, p2tog; 10 stitches

Work in st st over these 10 stitches for 33 rows, or until piece measures 6.75 inches, ending with a WS row

Row 52: Kf&b, k9; 11 stitches
Row 53: P11, CO 4; 15 stitches
Rows 54-57: Work in st st
Row 58: K4, k2tog, k9; 14 stitches
Rows 59-63: Work in st st
Row 64: K8, k2tog, k4; 13 stitches
Rows 65-69: Work in st st

Cut yarn and place all stitches on scrap yarn

With MC, Pick up and knit 12 stitches along the front left edge (nearer the edge you just finished)
Row 1: P12
Row 2: K1, RLinc, k3, w&t
Row 3: P5
Row 4: K1, RLinc, k9, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 5: P11
Row 6: K1, RLinc, k to end, picking up the wrap as you pass it
Row 7: P15
Row 8: K1, RLinc, k to end
Row 9: P16

Place all stitches on holder, break yarn

With MC, Pick up and knit 12 stitches along the front right edge (the side nearer the cast-on)

Row 1: P4, w&t
Row 2: K3, LLinc, k1
Row 3: P10, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 4: K9, LLinc, k1
Row 5: P14, picking up the wrap as you pass it
Row 6: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 7: P15
Row 8: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 9: P16
Row 10: K to end, CO 18 stitches, k16 stitches held from other side of front; 50 stitches

Size S

With CC, provisionally cast on 14 sts

Rows 1-3: Work in st st, beginning with a knit row
Row 4: K10, RLinc, k4; 15 stitches
Rows 5-9: Work in st st
Row 10: K9, RLinc, k7; 16 stitches
Rows 11-13: Work in st st
Row 14: K5, RLinc, k11; 17 stitches
Rows 15-19: Work in st st
Row 20: BO 4 stitches, k to end; 13 stitches
Row 21: P11, p2tog; 12 stitches
Work in st st over these 12 stitches for 37 rows, or until piece measures 7.5 inches, ending with a WS row
Row 58: Kf&b, k11; 13 stitches
Row 59: P13, CO 4; 17 stitches
Rows 60-63: Work in st st
Row 64: K4, k2tog, k11; 16 stitches
Rows 65-67: Work in st st
Row 68: K7, k2tog, k7; 15 stitches
Rows 69-73: Work in st st
Row 74: K9, k2tog, k4; 14 stitches
Rows 75-77: Work in st st

Cut yarn and place all stitches on scrap yarn

With MC, Pick up and knit 14 stitches along the front left edge (nearer the edge you just finished)

Row 1: P14
Row 2: K1, RLinc, k2, w&t
Row 3: P4
Row 4: K1, RLinc, k7, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 5: P9
Row 6: K1, RLinc, k12, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 7: P14
Row 8: K1, RLinc, k to end
Row 9: P18

Place all stitches on holder, break yarn

With MC, Pick up and knit 14 stitches along the front right edge (the side nearer the cast-on)

Row 1: P3, w&t
Row 2: K2, LLinc, k1
Row 3: P8, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 4: K7, LLinc, k1
Row 5: P13, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 6: K12, LLinc, k1
Row 7: Purl 17
Row 8: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 9: Purl 18
Row 10: K to end, CO 18 stitches, K18 stitches held from other side of front; 54 stitches

Size M

With CC, provisionally cast on 16 stitches

Rows 1-5: Work in st st, beginning with a knit row
Row 6: K12, RLinc, k4; 17 stitches
Rows 7-11: Work in st st
Row 12: K9, RLinc, k8; 18 stitches
Rows 13-17: Work in st st
Row 18: K5, RLinc, k13; 19 stitches
Rows 19-21: Work in st st
Row 22: BO 4 stitches, k to end; 15 stitches
Row 21: P13, p2tog; 14 stitches

Work in st st over these 14 stitches for 41 rows, or until piece measures 8.25 inches, ending with a WS row

Row 62: Kf&b, k13; 15 stitches
Row 63: P15, CO 4; 19 stitches
Rows 64-65: Work in st st
Row 66: K4, k2tog, k13; 18 stitches
Rows 67-71: Work in st st
Row 72: K8, k2tog, k8; 17 stitches
Rows 73-77: Work in st st
Row 78: K11, k2tog, k4; 16 stitches
Rows 79-83: Work in st st

Cut yarn and place all stitches on scrap yarn

With MC, Pick up and knit 15 stitches along the front left edge (nearer the edge you just finished)

Row 1: P15
Row 2: K1, RLinc, k2, w&t
Row 3: P4
Row 4: K1, RLinc, k7, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 5: P9
Row 6: K1, RLinc, k12, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 7: P14
Row 8: K1, RLinc, k to end
Row 9: P19
Row 10: K1, RLinc, k to end
Row 11: P20

Place all stitches on holder, break yarn

With MC, Pick up and knit 15 stitches along the front right edge (the side nearer the cast-on)

Row 1: P3, w&t
Row 2: K2, LLinc, k1
Row 3: P8, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 4: K7, LLinc, k1
Row 5: P13, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 6: K12, LLinc, k1
Row 7: P18
Row 8: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 9: P19
Row 10: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 11:P20
Row 12: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 13: P21
Row 14: k to end, CO 19 stitches, k20 stitches held from other side of front; 60 stitches

Sizes L & XL

With CC, provisionally cast on 17 stitches
Rows 1-3: Work in st st, beginning with a knit row
Row 4: K13, RLinc, k4; 18 stitches
Rows 5-9: Work in st st
Row 10: K10, RLinc, k9; 19 stitches
Rows 11-13: Work in st st
Row 14: K8, RLinc, k12; 20 stitches
Rows 15-19: Work in st st
Row 20: K5, RLinc, k15; 21 stitches
Rows 21-23: Work in st st
Row 24: BO 4 stitches, k to end; 17 stitches
Row 25: P14, p2tog; 16 stitches

Work in st st over these 16 stitches for 45 rows, or until piece measures 9 inches, ending with a WS row

Row 70: Kf&b, k15; 17 stitches
Row 71: P17, CO 4; 21 stitches
Rows 72-73: Work in st st
Row 74: K4, k2tog, k15; 20 stitches
Rows 75-79: Work in st st
Row 80: K7, k2tog, k11; 19 stitches
Rows 81-83: Work in st st
Row 84: K9, k2tog, k8; 18 stitches
Rows 85-89: Work in st st
Row 90: K13, k2tog, k4; 17 stitches
Rows 91-94: Work in st st

Cut yarn and place all stitches on scrap yarn

With MC, Pick up and knit 16 stitches along the front left edge (nearer the edge you just finished)

Row 1: P16
Row 2: K1, RLinc, k2, w&t
Row 3: P4
Row 4: K1, RLinc, k7, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 5: P9
Row 6: K1, RLinc, k11, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 7: P13
Row 8: K1, RLinc, k15, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 9: P17
Row 10: K1, RLinc, k to end
Row 11: P21
Row 12: K1, RLinc, k to end
Row 13: P22
Row 14: K1, RLinc, k to end
Row 15: P23

Place all stitches on holder, break yarn

With MC, Pick up and knit 16 stitches along the front right edge (the side nearer the cast-on)

Row 1: P3, w&t
Row 2: K2, LLinc, k1
Row 3: P8, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 4: K7, LLinc, k1
Row 5: P12, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 6: K11, LLinc, k1
Row 7: P16, picking up the wrap as you pass it, w&t
Row 8: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 9: P20
Row 10: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 11: P21
Row 12: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 13: P22
Row 14: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 15: P23
Row 16: K to 1 stitch before end, LLinc, k1
Row 17: P24
Row 18: k to end, CO 19 stitches, k23 stitches held from other side of front; 66 sts

Front (All Sizes)

Work flat in st st for 7 (9, 13, 15, 15) rows.
Next row: K11 (13, 16, 19, 19), pm, k28, pm, k11(13, 16, 19, 19)
Cont to work in st st for 21 (25, 27, 27, 33) rows, working your chosen motif in between the two markers.  Note that the “blank” stitches surrounding the pictures are important to keep the design centered. 

Next row: K1, RLinc, k to one stitch from edge, LLinc, k1; 52(56, 62, 68, 68) sts

Size XS only

Purl one row, then repeat the above row once more; 54 stitches

All sizes

Continue to work flat until you have completed your chosen motif, ending on a WS row.  Place all stitches on a stitch holder and break yarn.

Back (All sizes)

Using MC, pick up and knit 52(54, 60, 64, 66) stitches along the back of the yoke.

Work flat in st st until piece measures 4.5 (5.5, 6, 6.25, 6.5) inches from the natural “fold” in the yoke for the shoulder, ending with a WS row.

Next row: K1, RLinc, k to one stitch from edge, LLinc, k1 [54(56, 62, 66, 68)]

Cont to work even in st st until piece measures even with the front when yoke is folded along middle, ending with a WS row.

Knit across, then knit along all stitches from the front, joining to work in the round, placing marker under right sleeve to mark beginning of rnd.  Cont to work in st st in the rnd until piece measures 11 (12, 14, 16, 17) inches, or one inch less than desired length.  

Switch to smaller needles and CC.  Knit one rnd, then work 5 rnds in K1, P1 rib.  

Work the tubular bind off as described below:
Rnd 1: *K, sl* to end
Rnd 2: *Sl, p* to end
Rnd 3: *K, sl* to end
Rnd 4: *Sl, p* to end

Take two small circular needles and work around, slipping every other stitch onto each needle so that all the knit stitches end up on the front needle and all of the purl stitches end up on the back needle.  

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (approx 5[6, 6, 7, 7, 7] FEET long) and graft the two sets of stitches together using the kitchener stitch.

If you worked flat to finish the motif below the sleeve increases, go back and sew those seems so that the sides are joined up to the bottom of the armholes.

Sleeves (All sizes)

Using larger needles and CC, pick up and knit 13(14, 16, 17, 17) live stitches from top of arm hole, then pick up and knit 37 (46, 50, 52, 60) additional stitches around the armhole, joining to work in the round.

Row 1: K13 (14, 16, 17, 17), w&t
Row 2: P16 (20, 22, 24, 26), w&t
Row 3: K to the wrapped stitch, then knit the wrapped stitch without picking up the wrap, w&t
Row 4: P to the wrapped stitch, then purl the wrapped stitch without picking up the wrap, w&t
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until there 8 (10, 11, 11, 13) wrapped stitches on each side

Next round: Knit around, placing marker at center of underarm to mark end of round.

Cont to work in the round for 6 (5, 4, 4, 3) rounds
Next round: K1, k2tog, k to three stitches before marker, ssk, k1

Rep the previous 7 (6, 5, 5, 4) rounds until 38 (38, 44, 45, 46) sts rem.

Cont to work in st st until sleeve measures 5.25 (6, 7, 7.5, 8.5) inches from the underarm, or one inch less than the desired length.

Switch to smaller needles, and CC.  Knit one round, then work 4 rounds in K1, P1 rib.  

Work the tubular bind off as described below:

Rnd 1: *K, sl* to end
Rnd 2: *Sl, p* to end
Rnd 3: *K, sl* to end
Rnd 4: *Sl, p* to end

Take two small circular needles and work around, slipping every other stitch onto each needle so that all the knit stitches end up on the front needle and all of the purl stitches end up on the back needle.  

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (approx 7 FEET) long and graft the two sets of stitches together using the kitchener stitch.

Collar (All Sizes)

With smaller needles and CC, pick up and knit 58 (62, 70, 76, 78) stitches around neckline. Work 5 rounds in K1, P1 rib.  

Work the tubular bind off as described below:
Rnd 1: *K, sl* to end
Rnd 2: *Sl, p* to end
Rnd 3: *K, sl* to end
Rnd 4: *Sl, p* to end

Take two small circular needles and work around, slipping every other st onto each needle so that all the knit sts are on the front needle and all of the purl stitches are on the back needle.  

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail (approx 10 FEET) long and graft the two sets of stitches together using the kitchener stitch.
 

About the Designer: Elizabeth Warner

elizabeth warner

A former math teacher, Elizabeth carries a graphing calculator in her knitting bag, and isn’t afraid to use it.  She loves finding new and better ways to knit classic, flattering garments.  She lives in Tucson, Arizona with her husband and son.  You can find more of her patterns at GorlitsaKnits.

Pattern and images © 2008 Elizabeth Warner. Contact .

Twist of Fate - Fall 2008

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