Two-stitch twists cross each other challengingly in a mock argyle pattern on this toe up sock with gusset and slip stitch heel. Not quite as hard as a double black diamond ski run, but enough twists and turns that you’ll want to pay attention.
When I found myself faced with making socks for someone with relatively conservative tastes, my first thought was what I could do to keep the socks exciting for me, but still classic and simple in appeal. Argyle was an obvious choice. Using traveling twists to form the diamonds instead of blocks of color kept the effect subtle and the knitting engaging. This pattern is inspired by a stitch pattern in the second Vogue Knitting Stitchionary, adapted to work with the sock and to work in the round.
The sock is an advanced knit because there is a lot going on in each 20-row repeat, though by the time you get to the leg, you may have the pattern memorized. Though the pattern is not very repetitive, it does follow a logical progression, especially as you see the pattern emerge. Stockinette on the sole of the foot offers a break at the beginning of the sock, while you get used to the pattern.
Sizes
Women’s Small (5-6) [Medium (7-8), Large (9-10)] (U.S. Sizes)
Actual size: 7 (7.5, 8)” circumference.
Length: 9 (9.5, 10)”
To fit: 7.75 (8.25, 8.75)” (around ball of the foot).
Yarn
Patons Kroy Socks (75% Washable Wool. 25% Nylon; 166 yards [152 meters]/50 grams): Shown in Gentry Grey and Flax
2 (2, 3) balls.
Needles
US#0 (1, 2) or 2 (2.25, 2.75) mm double pointed needles or equivalent circular needle(s) if using magic loop or 2 circulars.
Gauge
9 (8.5, 8) sts and 13 (12, 11) rows = 1” in St st.
Notions
Tapestry needle, cable needle if desired, 1 removable stitch marker to mark beginning of round, 3 more stitch markers if using to mark each needle if using circulars instead of dpns.
Abbreviations
rt right twist
Using a cable needle (cn): slip the 1st stitch to the cn and hold to the back of the work. Knit the 2nd st through the back loop. Knit the stitch on the cable needle through the back loop.
Without a cable needle: skip the 1st stitch on the left needle and stick the right needle into the 2nd stitch as if to purl. Knit this stitch through the back loop, leaving the stitch on the needle. Then knit the 1st stitch through the back loop. Pull both worked stitches off the needle.
lt left twist
Using a cable needle (cn): slip the 1st stitch to the cn and hold to the front of the work. Knit the 2nd st through the back loop. Knit the stitch on the cable needle through the back loop.
Without a cable needle: Slip the next 2 stitches to the right needle as to purl. Hold the left needle at the front of the work and insert the tip of the left needle into the front of the first stitch slipped. Pull the right needle free of both stitches and pick the loose stitch up from the back. (The 2nd stitch will be off the needle for a moment, but it should stay in place.) Put the 2nd stitch back on the left needle and knit each stitch through its back loop.
rpt right purl twist
Using a cable needle (cn): slip the 1st stitch to the cn and hold to the back of the work. Knit the 2nd st through the back loop. Purl the stitch on the cable needle.
Without a cable needle: skip the 1st stitch on the left needle and stick the right needle into the 2nd stitch as if to purl. Knit this stitch through the back loop, leaving the stitch on the needle. Then purl the 1st stitch. Pull both worked stitches off the needle.
lpt left purl twist
Using a cable needle (cn): slip the 1st stitch to the cn and hold to the front of the work. Purl the 2nd st. Knit the stitch on the cable needle through the back loop.
Without a cable needle: Slip the next two stitches to the right needle as to purl. Hold the left needle at the front of the work and insert the tip of the left needle into the front of the first stitch slipped. Pull the right needle free of both stitches and pick the loose stitch up from the back. (The 2nd stitch will be off the needle for a moment, but it should stay in place.) Put the 2nd stitch back on the left needle and purl it, knit the 2nd stitch through the back loop.
rli: Right lifted increase.
lli: Left lifted increase.
See our tutorial on how to work lifted increases.
Double Diamond Chart A
Double Diamond Chart B
Double Diamond Chart C
Double Diamond Chart D
Double Diamond Chart E
Double Diamond Charts Fa, F and G
Pattern Notes
This is not a very stretchy sock, try as you go to make sure it fits over the foot and instep. For larger calves try using a larger needle on the leg.
This pattern is worked in the round from the toe up. The instructions cast on using Judy’s Magic Cast on with dpn’s, you could substitute a figure 8 or turkish cast on as well. For manageability, it maybe easier to cast on to two needles and knit off them with a 3rd for a few rows, increasing at each end of each needle before dividing the stitches over 4 needles. As the number of stitches increases, transfer half the stitches on the first needle to a third dpn. If using 5 needles, arrange the stitches so they are evenly divided, eventually totaling 16 stitches on each needle. If not using dpns, use stitch markers to designate the separate needles.
Every other row of the pattern is worked as presented, so knit the knit stitches, knit the twisted stitches through the back loop and purl the purls, except every 10th row of the diamond pattern. On these rows there are left and right twists. It’s important to note that these twists occur across needles or markers. The first twist on these rounds overlaps with the last stitch of the previous round. Do not work the last stitch. Instead, cross the stitches first, and knit the stitch that is now the first stitch of the round through the back loop and continue in pattern.
Adjusting size
Because of the overlapping pattern repeat, the easiest way to alter the size is to change the needle size, smaller needles for smaller sizes, larger needles for larger sizes. The large size requires 3 balls instead of two for normal length socks. Any increases in size will require more yarn. For more room around the ankle, add more stitches at the gusset, increasing every row instead of every other row near the heel. Adjust the short rows at the heel accordingly. If adjusting foot length, the gusset should start where the foot gets wider, about 2/3 to 3/4 before the heel. If this doesn’t happen neatly at the pattern repeat that’s fine, just continue back in pattern on the next row, after finishing the heel.
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Pattern
Toe
Using Judy’s Magic cast on, CO 24 sts.
(Chart A)
Rnd 1 (RS): Knit. Mark the start of the rnd with a removable stitch marker before the first st. Divide sts evenly between 4 needles (6 sts per needle).
Rnd 2 (Increase Rnd): *Rli, k to end of needle 1, k to end of needle 2, lli, rep from * once more for needles 3 and 4; 4 sts inc’d.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 an additional 9 times – 20 rnds worked; 64 sts. Then, work Rnd 1 once more.
Begin pattern on the instep of the foot (Chart B), and work the sole of the foot in St st.
Rnd 22: K2tog, k3, rli, ktbl, p1, rt, p1, ktbl, p1, k2, lt, rt, k2, p1, ktbl, p1, lt, p1, ktbl, lli, k3, ssk, k32 (to end).
Rnd 23: K5, (ktbl, p1, ktbl) twice, p1, k3, lt, k3, p1, (ktbl, p1, ktbl) twice, k37 (to end).
Rnd 24: K2tog, k2, rli, rpt twice, lpt twice, k2, rpt, lpt, k2, rpt twice, lpt twice, lli, k2, ssk, k32 (to end).
Rnd 25: K4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, ktbl, k2, ktbl, p2, ktbl, k2, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, ktbl, k36 (to end).
Rnd 26: K2tog, k1, rli, rpt twice, p2, lpt twice, rpt, p2, lpt, rpt twice, p2, lpt twice, lli, k1, ssk, k32 (to end).
Rnd 27: K3, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, k35 (to end).
Rnd 28: K2tog, rli, rpt, rt, p4, lt, lpt, p4, rt, rpt, p4, lt, lpt, lli, ssk, k32 (to end).
Rnd 29: K2, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, k34 (to end).
Rnd 30: K1, rpt twice, lpt, p2, rpt, lpt twice, p2, rpt twice, lpt, p2, rpt, lpt twice, k33 (to end).
Rnd 31: K1, ktbl, p1, (ktbl, p2) 3 times, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, (ktbl, p2) 3 times, ktbl, p1, ktbl, k33 (to end).
Rnd 32: Rpt twice, p2, lpt, rpt, p2, lpt twice, rpt twice, p2, lpt, rpt, p2, lpt twice, k32 (to end).
Rnd 33: Ktbl, p1, ktbl, p4, lt, p4, ktbl, p1, rt, p1, ktbl, p4, rt, p4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, k32 (to end).
Rnd 34: Lpt twice, p2, rpt, lpt, p2, rpt twice, lpt twice, p2, rpt, lpt, p2, rpt twice, k32 (to end).
Rnd 35: P1, ktbl, p1, (ktbl, p2) 3 times, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, (ktbl, p2) 3 times, (ktbl, p1) twice, k32 (to end).
Rnd 36: P1, lpt twice, rpt, p2, lpt, rpt twice, p2, lpt twice, rpt, p2, lpt, rpt twice, p1, k32 (to end).
Rnd 37: P2, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p2, k32 (to end).
Rnd 38: P2, lpt twice, p4, rpt, rt, p4, lt, lpt, p4, rpt twice, p2, k32 (to end).
Rnd 39: P3, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p3, k32 (to end).
Rnd 40: P3, lpt twice, p2, rpt twice, lpt, p2, rpt, lpt twice, p2, rpt twice, p3, k32 (to end).
Rnd 41: P4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, (ktbl, p2) 3 times, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p4, k32 (to end).
Rnd 42: P4, lpt twice, rpt twice, p2, lpt, rpt, p2, lpt twice, rpt twice, p4, k32 (to end).
Rnd 43: P5, ktbl, p1, rt, p1, ktbl, p4, lt, p4, ktbl, p1, lt, p1, ktbl, p5, k32 (to end).
Pattern repeat starts here, Work Chart C (Rnds 44 – 63) twice. Note: Rnds 53 – 63 are the same as Rnds 32 – 43)
Rnd 44: P4, rpt twice, lpt twice, p2, rpt, lpt, p2, rpt twice, lpt twice, p4, k32 (to end).
Rnd 45: P4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, (ktbl, p2) 3 times, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p4, k32 (to end).
Rnd 46: P3, rpt twice, p2, lpt twice, rpt, p2, lpt, rpt twice, p2, lpt twice, p3, k32 (to end).
Rnd 47: P3, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p3, k32 (to end).
Rnd 48: P2, rpt, rt, p4, lt, lpt, p4, rt, rpt, p4, lt, lpt, p2, k32 (to end).
Rnd 49: P2, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p2, k32 (to end).
Rnd 50: P1, rpt twice, lpt, p2, rpt, lpt twice, p2, rpt twice, lpt, p2, rpt, lpt twice, p1, k32 (to end).
Rnd 51: (P1, ktbl) twice, (p2, ktbl) 3 times, (p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl) twice, (p2, ktbl, p2, ktbl) twice, p1, ktbl, p1, k32 (to end).
Rnd 52: Rpt twice, p2, lpt, rpt, p2, lpt twice, rpt twice, p2, lpt, rpt, p2, lpt twice, k32 (to end).
Rnd 53: Ktbl, p1, ktbl, p4, lt, p4, ktbl, p1, rt, p1, ktbl, p4, rt, p4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, k32 (to end).
Rnd 54: Lpt twice, p2, rpt, lpt, p2, rpt twice, lpt twice, p2, rpt, lpt, p2, rpt twice, k32 (to end).
Rnd 55: P1, ktbl, p1, (ktbl, p2) 3 times, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, (ktbl, p2) 3 times, (ktbl, p1) twice, k32 (to end).
Rnd 56: P1, lpt twice, rpt, p2, lpt, rpt twice, p2, lpt twice, rpt, p2, lpt, rpt twice, p1, k32 (to end).
Rnd 57: P2, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p2, k32 (to end).
Rnd 58: P2, lpt twice, p4, rpt, rt, p4, lt, lpt, p4, rpt twice, p2, k32 (to end).
Rnd 59: P3, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p3, k32 (to end).
Rnd 60: P3, lpt twice, p2, rpt twice, lpt, p2, rpt, lpt twice, p2, rpt twice, p3, k32 (to end).
Rnd 61: P4, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, (ktbl, p2) 3 times, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl, p1, ktbl, p4, k32 (to end).
Rnd 62: P4, lpt twice, rpt twice, p2, lpt, rpt, p2, lpt twice, rpt twice, p4, k32 (to end).
Rnd 63: P5, ktbl, p1, rt, p1, ktbl, p4, lt, p4, ktbl, p1, lt, p1, ktbl, p5, k32 (to end).
Gusset
(Chart D) Rnds 64 – 83: Repeat instep pattern once more (chart B or Rounds 44 – 63), at the same time, begin increases for the gusset. One stitch is added at the beginning of needle 3 and the end of needle 4. This stitch is knit through the back stitch each subsequent round to make a twisted stitch edge along the gusset. The first increase is added to needle 4 before the round starts (see instructions below). The gusset stitches are increased every other round after the twisted stitch on needle 3 and before the twisted stitch on needle 4 until number of stitches increases to 74 total. (10 stitches each side.) Knit across the sole in stockinette as usual.
Rnd 64: lli (add this increase to needle 4 then continue on needle 1), (chart B, Rnd 44), rli, k32, ktbl (This is the lli increase at the beginning of the rnd).
Rnd 65: (chart B, Rnd 45), ktbl, k32 lli, ktbl
Rnd 66: (chart B, Rnd 46), ktbl, rli, k33, ktbl.
Rnd 67: (chart B, Rnd 47), ktbl, k34, lli, ktbl.
Rnd 68: (chart B, Rnd 48), ktbl, rli, k35, ktbl.
Rnd 69: (chart B, Rnd 49), ktbl, k36, lli, ktbl.
Rnd 70: (chart B, Rnd 50), ktbl, rli, k37, ktbl.
Rnd 71: (chart B, Rnd 51), ktbl, k38, lli, ktbl.
Rnd 72: (chart B, Rnd 52), ktbl, rli, k39, ktbl.
Rnd 73: (chart B, Rnd 53), ktbl, k40, lli, ktbl.
Rnd 74: (chart B, Rnd 54), ktbl, rli, k41, ktbl.
Rnd 75: (chart B, Rnd 55), ktbl, k42, lli, ktbl.
Rnd 76: (chart B, Rnd 56), ktbl, rli, k43, ktbl.
Rnd 77: (chart B, Rnd 57), ktbl, k44, lli, ktbl.
Rnd 78: (chart B, Rnd 58), ktbl, rli, k45, ktbl.
Rnd 79: (chart B, Rnd 59), ktbl, k46, lli, ktbl.
Rnd 80: (chart B, Rnd 60), ktbl, rli, k47, ktbl.
Rnd 81: (chart B, Rnd 61), ktbl, k48, lli, ktbl.
Rnd 82: (chart B, Rnd 62), ktbl, rli, k49, ktbl.
Rnd 83: (chart B, Rnd 63), ktbl, k41.
Heel
(Chart E) Turn to WS. Begin shortrows, working back and forth on needles 3 and 4 only.
Row 1(WS): Yo, p32.
Row 2(RS): Yo, k31.
Row 3: Yo, p30.
Row 4: Yo, k29.
Row 5: Yo p28.
Row 6: Yo k27.
Row 7: Yo p26.
Row 8: Yo, k25.
Row 9: Yo, p24.
Row 10: Yo, k23.
Row 11: Yo, p22.
Row 12: Yo, k21.
Row 13: Yo, p20.
Row 14: Yo, k19.
Row 15: Yo, p18.
Row 16: Yo, k17.
Row 17: Yo, p16.
Row 18: Yo, k15.
Row 19: Yo, p14.
Turn heel
Row 20: Yo, k14, k2tog 9 times.
Row 21: Sl1p, p23, p2tog 9 times.
Row 22: *Sl1p, k1* 15 times, sl1p, k3tog.
Row 23: Sl1p, p30, p3tog.
Row 24: *Sl1p k1* 15 times, sl1p, k2tog.
Row 25: Sl1p, p30, p2tog.
Row 26: Repeat Rows 24 & 25 until gusset stitches are used up. (8 times)
Row 40 *Sl1p, k1* 15 times, sl1p, lpt the last stitch of the row with the first stitch of the next rnd. When you begin the next rnd you will already have one stitch on your right needle.
Leg
Continue working the in the round. The first two rounds ease the transition from the heel to the leg, by having the stitch at the top of the gusset travel into the pattern . If you’ve adjusted the pattern for length, the transition can be skipped.
(Chart Fa)
Rnd 1: First stitch is the second stitch of lpt, p3, rpt twice, lpt twice, p2, rpt, lpt, p2, rpt twice, lpt twice, p3, rpt, p3, rpt twice, lpt twice, p2, rpt, lpt, p2, rpt twice, lpt twice, p2, lt.
Rnd 2: *Lt, p2, ktbl, (p1, ktbl, p2, ktbl) 2 times, p1, (P1, ktbl, p2, ktbl) 2 times, p1, ktbl, p2, rt* twice.
(Chart F) Diamond pattern, work repeat 3.5 (3, 4) times
Rnd 1 (RS): *Lpt, p2, rpt twice, lpt twice, p2, rpt* 4 times.
Rnds 2 & 18: *(P1, ktbl, p2, ktbl) 3 times, p1* 4 times.
Rnd 3: *P1, lpt, rpt twice, p2, lpt twice, rpt, p1* 4 times.
Rnd 4 & 16: *P2, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p4, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p2* 4 times.
Rnd 5: *P2, rpt, rt, p4, lt, lpt, p2* 4 times.
Rnds 6 & 14: *P2, ktbl, p1, k2tbl, p4, k2tbl, p1, ktbl, p2* 4 times.
Rnd 7: *P1, rpt twice, lpt, p2, rpt, lpt twice, p1* 4 times.
Rnds 8 & 12: *(P1, ktbl) twice, (p2, ktbl) 3times, p1, ktbl, p1* 4 times.
Rnd 9: *Rpt twice, p2, lpt, rpt, p2, lpt twice* 4 times. On last stitch of rnd, lt with first stitch of next rnd, see pattern notes.
Rnd 10: First stitch is second st of lt *p1, ktbl, p4, lt, p4, ktbl, p1, rt, p1, ktbl, p4, rt, p4, ktbl, p1, lt,* twice. End round working just the first stitch of lt.
Rnd 11: *Lpt twice, p2, rpt, lpt, p2, rpt twice* 4 times.
Rnd 13: *P1, lpt twice, rpt, p2, lpt, rpt twice, p1* 4 times.
Rnd 15: *P2, lt, lpt, p4, rpt, rt, p2* 4 times.
Rnd 17: *P1, rpt, lpt twice, p2, rpt twice, lpt, p1* 4 times.
Rnd 19: *Rpt, p2, lpt twice, rpt twice, p2, lpt* 4 times. On last stitch of round, rt with first stitch of next rnd, see pattern notes.
Rnd 20: First stitch is second st of rt, *p4, ktbl, p1, rt, p1, ktbl, p4, lt, p4, ktbl, p1, lt, p1, ktbl, p4, rt* twice. End round working just the first stitch of rt. Same question as rnd 10.
Ribbing
(Chart G) Work twisted ribbing *ktbl, p* to end of rnd for 10 rnds.
Finishing
Bind off loosely using the sewn or tubular bind off. Weave in ends, block if desired, and wear with pride!
About the Designer: Toni Blye
Toni rarely knits from patterns, and thinks it’s funny that she should try writing them. She’s reminded of calling home to ask how long to cook a roast and getting the ever helpful answer “until it’s done!” Sporadic with blog and website updates, but hangs out on Ravelry as phoenix.
Pattern and images © 2009 Toni Blye.
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