I conceived this tunic when swatching some Elizabeth Lavold Hempathy that a friend of mine gave me – colors that are bright enough to evoke warmth and sun, but not so bright as to be unflattering. This friend has good taste in color! For warm-weather items, I prefer simple and comfortable over ornate, and pictured something striped, with a bit of waist shaping, that hits at the bottom of the hip for full tummy coverage (something that I find problematic with summer shirts)!
The tunic is knit in the round to the armholes, where the front and back are divided and worked separately to the shoulders. After the shoulder seams are sewn, stitches are picked up along the neck and a slouchy cowl is knit in the round. The cowl is edged with a few rounds of beads, which serve as both adornment and as weight to keep the cowl nice and drapey. The beads at the neck are echoed in a round of beads at the hem.
Sizes
Finished Bust Size 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52)” to fit bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52)”
0” of ease across bust
Shown in size 32”
Yarn
Elizabeth Lavold Hempathy (34% hemp, 41% cotton, 25% modal 153 yds [140 meters]/50 grams): 06 Rose (Color A), 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) balls [250 (280, 350, 380, 450, 470) yds]; 10 Citrine (Color B), 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) balls [250 (280, 350, 380, 450, 470) yds]; 04 White Beach (Color C) 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4) balls [250 (280, 350, 380, 450, 470) yds]
A 100% hemp yarn or a linen yarn would also work well for this design. However, these yarns will have less stretch than the Hempathy, so consider making a larger size if using a less elastic yarn.
Needles
US #10 (6 mm): 16” and 24” circular
Gauge
22 sts and 28 rows = 4” [10 cm] in St st after wet blocking in washing machine (cold or delicate wash) and drying in the dryer (low heat).
Notions
Tapestry needle; 2 stitch markers
Beads
116 (124, 134, 142, 154, 162) plastic seed beads, size 6 in Color 1 (burnished gold)
84 (84, 90, 90, 96, 96) plastic seed beads, size 6 in Color 2 (silver)
Abbreviations
b1( Bead 1): Push bead to end of working yarn, at front of work. Purl stitch. Bead should be on front side of work, before the p st just worked.
Stripe Pattern: The number of rows in each of the 6 stripes that make up the body is as follows: 28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32). This makes for easy row counting.
Pattern Notes
This pattern is worked in the round from the bottom up to the armholes, at which point the front and back are worked separately, back and forth. After the shoulder seams are sewn, the stitches for the cowl neck are picked up and worked in the round.
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Pattern
Body
Using Color A, pre-string 60 (68, 74, 82, 90, 98) beads in Color 1.
Using 24” circular needle, and Color A, CO 180 (204, 222, 246, 270, 294) sts. Join to work in the rnd, being careful not to twist. Pm at the beg of the rnd.
Rnd 1: K entire rnd and pm after stitch 90 (102, 111, 123, 135, 147) to mark side seam.
Rnd 2: *P2, b1, repeat from * to end of rnd.
From this point on, top is worked in St st. Continuing in Color A, finish rows of Stripe 1 according to the Stripe Pattern for your size. Cut Color A and join Color B.
Waist Shaping
Work 1 rnd in Color B. Next rnd (dec rnd): Ssk, work to 2 st before 1st marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, work to 2 st before 2nd marker, k2tog; 4 sts dec’d.
Work 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) rnds even, then repeat dec rnd on 7th (7th, 8th, 8th, 9th, 9th) rnd. Rep these 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) rnds 1 more time for a total of 3 dec rnds. 168 (192, 210, 234, 258, 282) sts rem. Working straight, complete the number of rnds necessary for Stripe 2. Cut Color B and join Color C.
Work 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) rnds even in Color C. On the 7th (7th, 8th, 8th, 9th, 9th) rnd, inc 1 st at beg of row, 1 st before 1st marker, 1 st after 1st marker, and 1 st at end of rnd. Rep these 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) rnds 2 more times for a total of 3 increase rnds; 180 (204, 222, 246, 270, 294) sts. Working straight, complete the number of rnds necessary for Stripe 3. Cut Color C and join Color A.
Armhole Shaping
Work 18 (18, 20, 20, 22, 22) rnds in Color A. Next row: BO 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) sts. Work to first marker, then, keeping rem sts on circular needle (but not working them) or placing rem sts on a spare needle or length of waste yarn, turn and BO 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) sts, then p to end of row. You are now working back and forth in St st on the front sts only.
**BO 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
Dec 1 st on each end of next row and every other following row a total of 4 (4, 5, 6, 8, 8) times. A total of 68 (78, 85, 93, 101, 111) sts remain for front.
Working straight, complete the number of rows necessary for Stripe 4.
Cut Color A and join Color B. Working straight, complete the number of rows necessary for Stripe 5.
Cut Color B and join Color C.** Work 12 (12, 14, 14, 16, 16) rows of Stripe 6.
Front Neck
On next row, work 23 (26, 29, 31, 35, 37) sts. BO next 22 (26, 27, 31, 31, 37) sts. Work remaining 23 (26, 29, 31, 35, 37) sts.
You will now work each side of the front neck separately.
Right Front
Turn and work 1 row.
BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row straight.
Dec 1 st at neck edge of each RS row 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times. 16 (19, 22, 24, 28, 30) sts rem.
On next WS row, at armhole edge, BO first 4 (5, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts. Turn and work 1 row straight.
On next WS row, at armhole edge, BO first 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts. Turn and work 1 row straight.
BO final 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts.
Left Front
With WS facing, rejoin Color C to 23 (26, 29, 31, 35, 37) sts on needle. These sts are the left front section.
BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts at beg of row. Work 1 row straight.
Dec 1 st at neck edge of each WS row 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times. 16 (19, 22, 24, 28, 30) sts rem.
On next RS row, at armhole edge, BO first 4 (5, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts. Turn and work 1 row straight.
On next RS row, at armhole edge, BO first 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts. Turn and work 1 row straight.
BO final 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts.
Back
With RS facing, rejoin Color A to the sts that you have on a spare needle or waste yarn. BO 5 sts at beg of next two rows. Work as for front section from ** to **.
After working instructions between **s, work 20 (20, 22, 22, 24, 24) rows of Stripe 6. On next row, work 20 (23, 26, 28, 32, 34) sts. BO next 28 (32, 33, 37, 39, 43) sts. Work remaining 20 (23, 26, 28, 32, 34) sts.
You’ll now work the left and right back separately.
Left Back
Turn and work 1 row across st before the BO st. These st are the left back section.
BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of next RS row at neck edge. On next (WS) row, at armhole edge, BO first 4 (5, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts. Turn and work 1 row straight.
On next WS row, at armhole edge, BO first 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts. Turn and work 1 row straight.
BO final 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) st. Need to BO an additional 2 sts for the size 48.
Right Back
With RS facing, rejoin Color C to 20 (23, 26, 28, 32, 34) sts on needle. These sts are the right back section. Work 1 row straight.
BO 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of next WS row at neck edge. On next (RS) row, at armhole edge, BO first 4 (5, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts. Turn and work 1 row straight.
On next RS row, at armhole edge, BO first 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts. Turn and work 1 row straight.
BO final 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts.
Cowl Neck
Sew shoulder seams.
With WS facing, using Color A, carefully pick up and k 42 (42, 45, 45, 48, 48) sts along front neck and 42 (42, 45, 45, 48, 48) sts along back neck for a total of 84 (84, 90, 90, 96, 96) sts. Pm to indicate beg of rnd.
Work 28 (28, 28, 28, 28, 28) rnds in st st with Color A. Cut Color A and join Color C. Work 28 (28, 28, 28, 28, 28) rnds in st st with Color C.
On Color B, pre-string 28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32) beads of Color 2, 28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32) beads of Color 1, 28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32) beads of Color 2, 28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32) beads of Color 1, and 28 (28, 30, 30, 32, 32) beads of Color 2.
5 groups of beads; 140 (140, 150, 150, 160, 160) beads total.
Cut color C and join Color B (with the pre-strung beads). Work 18 rnds with Color B.
Rnd 19: *P2, b1, rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 20 and all even-numbered rnds: K
Rnd 21: *B1, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 23: P1, *b1, p2, rep from * until 2 sts rem, b1, p1.
Rnd 25: *P2, b1, rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 27: *B1, p2, rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 28: K
BO all st loosely. The sewn BO is perfect.
Armhole Edging
With RS facing, using Color C and beginning at underarm, pick up and k 39 (39, 43, 43, 47, 47) sts along back of right armhole and 39 (39, 43, 43, 47, 47) sts along front of right armhole for a total of 78 (78, 86, 86, 94, 94) armhole sts. Pm to indicate beg of rnd.
P 1 round.
K 1 round.
BO all st loosely. The sewn BO is perfect.
Repeat for other armhole.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Block by washing in the machine (cold water or delicate wash) and laying flat to dry, or drying until nearly dry in the dryer and removing while slightly damp to lay flat. Pin bottom hem if necessary to keep it from curling.
After the initial blocking, it is possible to wash and dry your garment in the machine, using a cold water or delicate wash and low heat on the dryer. Whether you’ve used hemp or linen, your garment will soften with washing.
About the Designer: Ann Weaver
Ann Weaver, former Assyriologist and Administrative Professional, works odd jobs and designs knitwear. Other members of the Weaver family provide inspiration and feedback on Ann’s designs.
Pattern and images © 2009 Ann Weaver.
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